Shortly after arriving in Loreto, I became very interested in the history, culture, people and plants that formed this unique area. Working as a tour guide only increased this interest and my efforts to learn and understand. Reliable written materials were few and far between, but there was one book that stood out with it's combination of hard facts and emotional touches--Loreto, Baja California First Mission and Capital of Spanish California.

This book was written as a labor of love by Ann & Don O'Neil, who first traveled to Loreto shortly after I was born. In the introduction, she writes:

"When we first arrived in Loreto, the transpeninsular highway was not completed, there was no telephone, and the local generator produced uncertain electricity. But the fish were plentiful, the people kind and friendly, and the sea and mountains and desert reminded us of the world as it must have looked in the beginning. From Loreto we have traveled and camped all over Mexico and Central America in many beautiful places, but when we come home we always agreed that Loreto is the loveliest place we have ever been."

This personal love of the area shows through the words on the pages. Ann spent years interviewing local people in both Loreto and San Javier, and she includes very personal interviews and stories. These are my fuel during tours--I use Ann's experiences and conversations to help keep the memories of those people alive, to bring the history closer.

People often ask me why I am here in Loreto, a question I find difficult to answer with words (photos are my definitely my preferred tool!). Perhaps Ann's reflections help to understand:

"Although we are extranjeros, we have felt very much at home since the beginning of our life here. We love the tranquility and slow pace of living, the light and shadow on the mountains and islands, the many moods of the Sea of Cortez, the unpolluted air, and the wonderful people we have come to know. We have attended weddings and baptisms and fifteenth-birthday and funeral Masses in the first California mission. Children visit us to have soccer balls and bicycle tires inflated or for old magazines, for English lessons or just to talk. People from all over the world come sit on our porch and enrich our lives. We have shared with our neighbors the joy of new life and the sorrow of loss. We have watched generations of children grow up and have played a small part in that process."

Although Ann and I had emailed, our paths had never crossed until last week. Ann was in Loreto and gave a lecture at our university, and I was finally able to meet this woman for whom I have so much respect. I was a little embarrassed to ask her to sign my copy of her book, as it is all tattered and torn from use (with lots of post-its marking specific pages), but in her note she wrote that I should preserve it, because she finds it a real tribute.

Ann hopes to return to Loreto later this Spring, and I hope we will be able to spend more time together. In the meantime, I was thrilled just to meet her and kiss her cheek.

Best from Loreto,

Siri